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“Cena della viglia” …….. directly translated means: “The dinner of the vigil”, a custom that dates back to the 7th century. Italians celebrate the birth of Christ with this fabulous meal that breaks the daylong fast of Christmas Eve. The dinner is usually paced slowly and steadily as to keep everyone awake for midnight mass. The meal traditionally consists of assorted fish and seafood, presented in courses. The most common number of fishes seems to be seven, although it varies form region to region.
Christianity, as well as many other religions, incorporates numerology into ritual celebration and this is where the numbers of the fish come into play. In some parts of Italy, mainly the landlocked regions, 3 courses are prepared celebrating the 3 wise men. In areas of southern Italy, 12 or 13 are presented for the apostles, depending if Jesus or Judas were added or subtracted. In Naples, the 7 fishes represent the 7 days of the week, the 7 virtues, or the 7 hills of Rome. This great feast can also be based on the 52 weeks of the year, reasoning that 5 + 2 = 7; hence the 7 courses. Another interesting equation that takes place is in Abruzzo, where 9 fishes are served for the holy trinity multiplied by 3, or for the 9 month gestation of the Virgin Mary. The numbers vary greatly depending on the people and the region.
Many of the dishes prepared during the “Cena della viglia” are vinegar based. This is because in certain areas, like Naples, the highly religious leave out special treats for the angel who announces the birth of the Christ child. The dishes are left out overnight, so vinegar is used to preserve them.
The dishes prepared during this fantastic feast vary greatly. The fish and seafood are usually from the Mediterranean and Adriatic Seas. Some common fishes used are – Triglia, known as Red mullet. There is also Seppia, more commonly known as Cuttlefish or Inkfish (very similar to Calamari). Baccala is also a favorite, but most people are familiar with Baccala as Codfish. The list goes on and on…. Cicale (a relative of the shrimp), Langastino (a smaller, spiny lobster), Vongole (small clams), etc….all in all, the recipes and numbers used are based on tradition and family, the 2 of the things that Christmas represents for most people, and that is what makes the holiday special for everyone!!!
Happy Holidays To All,
Chef Joseph Palombo
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